Simplicity, Bare Torsos and Fine Tailoring at Men’s Fashion Week in Milan

Jesu Coria

Latter ruled over the Milan Men’s Fashion Week that closed on Monday. The event was very rational, very efficient and very product-centered of the Fall-Winter 2023 season. In Miuccia Prada’s words: “in serious moments, one has to work seriously and responsibly. There can be no room for useless creativity. Creativity makes sense and is only useful when it discovers new things.”

In this season there were not new discoveries, however the formality look took place: a symbolic rappel à l’ordre after years of dismantling old notions of masculinity and dress codes. The emerged look did not represent a masculine image, but fragility, with tailored pieces and naked torsos. 

Prada showed a modernist and minimalist collection on its celebration of skinny, hairless youth. There was nothing new on the collection, but somehow it appealed with a relentless focus on wardrobe archetypes and the architectural game of proportions, the cleanliness of retro-futuristic tingle.

Gucci with a laid-back California style along with tailoring and cleanliness replaced the bohemian extravaganza. Alessandro Michele brought maximalism that stripped his work away, with a tasteful and sensitive result, the masculinity remained.

Given the latest circumstances of Gucci, without a creative director and a collection created by a committee, there was little to expect with one of the most anxiously awaited outings of the season.

The old school elegance and discretion are making a comeback. Layers of deconstructed beige, velvet-double breasted suits worn with neckties at Giorgio Armani, who celebrated tradition that speaks volume about the world we live in. At his second line, Emporio Armani created a profound sense of elation with aviators, covered with trench coats and perfectly buttoned blazers, shortened pants and boots with massive soles, however it did not fall under the Top Gun trap. Maintaining demeanor or, in Armani´s words “he is human, subtle.” The collection was an unexpected surprise for the generations that charted waters in the past.

While Dolce & Gabbanna looks are more sensual than fragile, they are taut and focused. The collection consisted of tailored blazers and Dracula capes, waist shapers and transparent blouses came in an exclusive black, white and very light gray. The skin was also present showing through shirts and peeking under coats and tops.

The stay-at-home is emphasized, domestic was everywhere: blanket, pillows, slippers and childhood memories. Household was strong and centered, after the pandemic, you would expect an extravagant fierce adventure and party. However, people are still looking for the reassurance of the world we inhabit.

Fendi presented their perfect balance between a house party and domestic lifestyle at a show scored by the disco master Giorgio Moroder. Silva Venturini presented once again duality and hit a point with mixed seduction, slim and Seventies-like tailoring and outerwear condensed with blankets that created a blast from start to finish. Every piece of the menswear is dense and incredibly rich in every piece feeling, without making it look overdone, flashy or vulgar.